Dreams can come true

The prologue, this consisted of a quick lap around the Dubai motocross track to determine the starting order for the following day, now all this was new to me and with 60 bikes and 20 quads entering the race I thought to start around 50th would suit me fine, that way I could just follow the tracks and not worry about the navigation side of things. I went around the track slowly but confidently enough wondering if the hour I spent in the desert two days before was enough training for what was to come. After the prologue was finished I had myself a starting position of 57th out of 80, that will do for me. So it was back to Dubai for one last nights rest. I was not nervous at all and had really no idea what to expect or what lay ahead.

Day 1, what a day, my fist experience at racing and what an experience it was, I will leave nothing out so here goes. Firstly I must thank Colin Mercer for helping me out to get to the start line and then without Sean Mayer's help throughout the race it would not have been possible, so Sean and I got up at 4am loaded the bike onto the trailer and set off for Abu Dahbi, 150 k's away from Dubai where the start was to take place at the Emirates Palace. We had gone no further than 10 k's and noticed a bag in the back of his truck missing, yep his boots and clothing bag had fallen out so turning around quickly to find them but only having luck with his boots, the clothes bag was no where to be seen, what a great start I thought, on we went. The ceremonial start was up over a ramp with a hand shake from Sheik Mohammed Bin Salaem, down the ramp i road with a liaison of about 50 k's to the start of the special stage. Each day consist of liaison stage's which is just the part you have to ride to get to the start line of that day or back to the bivouac at night, its not a race stage and then the special stage is the race timed stage. I made it to the start line in time to see the likes of Marc Coma and Cyril Depres scream off into the desert on their factory KTM's what a sight, I wondered what I would do, scream off, take it easy even fall off who knows but as the clock ticked away my time came closer, still not nervous at all, i felt good. Then it was me I got the count down, 20 seconds, 10 seconds, then 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 go!!!

Getting geared up in Abu Dahbi for the start.

By the end after my big fall it did not quite look the same but what a machine it turned out to be

Away I went, naturally almost as hard as I could, its a long race and people had been telling me that a lot of people burn themselves out on day one by going to hard, so I went at about 3/4 pace for a long time, the going mainly flat with out much sand. Concentrating on working the road book and learning how to use the navigation but the skill was quickly acquired and got on with the job at hand. I passed a few bikes early and wondered if I was going to fast, my only fear wondering if I was on track to burn myself out like people say. The day went on and I grew in confidence, felt settled on the bike and finally the deeper I got into the desert the more sand began, passing a few more bikes I still felt good, remember these bikes started at 30 second time intervals ahead of me so it meant I was making up time on them. Through out the day I passed about 4 quads all parked up, the riders OK on their mobile phones, indicating their machines were broken, what a disappointment it must have been, I prayed that mine would just keep going on going to the end.

Day 1, the sevice point, after I fell off I had to wash the sand off my face, thanks Sean.

Riding the dunes.

I had covered about 270 's or so of special stage and still felt perfect so decided to get into it a bit as there was only 40 k's to go, through the dunes like a boat in ocean swell, rolling with them, I was enjoying it, then one caught me out, two fast off a drop of and I fell to the side as the bike went down my head slamming into the side of the dune, a little rattled I picked up the bike, quick inspection, everything including me beside a mouthful of sand and off I went again reaching the finish line shortly after, then with a 120 k liaison to the bivouac. Now a funny thing happened on this liaison, of course I had been re hydrating like nothing else, drinking so much water so not to get dehydrated in the desert, another big thing that stops riders. But i had dank clearly way to much and was consistently busting for a pee, eventually I had to stop by the side of the road to relieve one self, as I did I was so busting that when I went number one and and actually farted number two decided to rear its ugly head, as one would say. Hell here I was now with a problem, I swung my leg over the bike and stood up all the way to the next fuel station, climbed off my bike in front of a few Arab's who looked amazed, here's this rider all kitted up, with a race number and looking like I was apart of a major event, which I was, wondering off to the loo. cleaned myself up, lost the underwear and rode all the way to the bivouac minus my jocks!!! Anyway as it turned out I managed to have the 17th fastest time of the day, i was stoked with my efforts and felt still on top of things, not tired and looked forward to the next day.

Day 2-Its hard to remember exactly all the race but day two saw an early start, every day was an early start, first rider away at 6am and the higher you finish the closer you are to that time. I had another good day this time I managed to stay on my bike all day and spent most of it alone not been able to catch anyone nor anyone behind me catch me, over 300 k's out there screaming around in the desert, at the beginning I did come over a rise and see a bike on its side and then the rider about 30 metres in front of it laying on the ground, already another rider had stopped so I continued on when they gave me the thumbs up, I thought it can happen so easy, just be careful and don't get to excited, get to the finish line. Its very much a mind game out there, how hard to push, are you going fast enough, are you going to fast, its a long way to the end and the idea is to make it, for me never ever done such a thing I had no idea but just rode my bike best I could and at the same time careful enough. Again at the end I felt good and this time I had finished 13th overall, again I could not believe it, I was up against some amazing riders and plus I was aboard a 450 and half the field on the big 690 cc's, the dunes and tight stuff more suited to the smaller bikes I guess.

Simon Pavey, Aussie who has done the Dakar many times.

Day 3-what an amazing experience I had on this day. Since I started in 13th position it meant i was surrounded by some well know riders and once the stage got under way a group formed, in it were two factory ktm's, these guys have only ever been names to me, and here I was, in total there were 4 690's and two 450's, me on one of course and for the next 300k's we stuck together, I think their shear speed pulled me along faster than I may have gone on my own, the pace was blistering, sometimes 120 and more across the desert, at times going down huge dune slip faces, in a row, for me it was a sight to see, it was an amazing experience but then toward the end n the last 40 k's I fell on my side and by time I picked it up they ahead, I tried to catch them up but then fell again, I told myself to get a grip, let them go, I had kept up with them long enough, composing myself I made it almost to the line when faced with one more huge dune, i was getting tired by this point, almost got to the top and over again, picking up the bike I jumped on rode a metre and fell over the opposite side, I was exhausted, picking it one more time with a huge grunt, I rode carefully back down the dune turned around and roared up it, this time up and over to the finish line, another day down and now I was feeling the body, feeling the tiredness but what a day and my time was great, i think I finished 11th overall, not bad for a guy that only practiced for an hour!!

The mad Russians flew through the desert in thier Kamaz

Tim Trenker from Dubai KTM.

The winner of the cars. BMW X5

Day 4-Realising now that I did not have to conserve energy I would go for it all day, I knew my body would stand up to it and not run out of steam. I pushed all day but felt slow in the morning and my time proved that, I think I dropped as far as 20th in the first half of the day, I never was a morning person! But after the half way point I would get into it and made up my positions again, not sure where I finished but around 15th fastest for the day, with one to go things looked good and my nerves started to kick in. I was sitting 4th in the 450 class and that day the top Portuguese rider had taken a fall and broken his back, which of course was not good but it moved me into a podium place, 3rd looked good but the other Portuguese rider, Rodrigus was fast and I only had a 30 minute lead on him which if I kept it together would be enough to beat him across the line on the final day. But due to this possibility my nerves came for thefirst time in the race, going into the last day I was as nervous as hell!

On day 4 The number one in the world Marc Coma's bike failed, thats him getting a lift from a spectator!!

Day 5-the final leg that would see us back to Dubai, it started with a liaison of 118 k's to the start and then taking us out of the dunes and into more flatter terrain and requiring a lot more navigation as the stage found its way through camel farms and around roads. I felt good as I went and by the time I got to the halfway point to have my compulsory 15 minute break i was told Rodrigus had only made up 30 seconds on me so now more than ever I had to just get across the line and third was mine. Off I went for the final leg, not long after there was a bike parked on the side of the track, it was a 450 and it was the leader, he was out as he just gave a disappointed wave to me, this meant I was now in 2nd spot, then I made a navigational error and had to come back on myself about a kilometre or so, clearly I had time up my sleeve but I had to cross a series of dunes which took time, I told my self to calm down and just ride carefully, I did not listen to myself one bit, I hit about 90 right as I hit a small dune on the road and I flew landing on a huge mound of dirt on the other side, the bike bucked and I went flying on my own, spinning end oer end in the air, I was there that long that in my mind I had enough time to think to myself, shit this is going to hurt, an hurt bad! I landed with my head and then rolled down my back feet landing last and my momentum left me sitting up right, I paused stood up and could not believe it I was fine, I felt perfect, I ran back to the bike picked it up and pushed my road book back to its normal position and then found the map cover about 10 metres from the bike, ran got it, put it back on, started the bike and rode off. At that point I thought nothing was going to stop me finishing the race, I am meant to finish it as with a crash like that I was not really meant to even stand up but I was fine. But I had ripped the power cable out of the gps and navigation was now hard, I slowed to wait for a rider behind me to pass so I could follow him in to the finish, I stuck close to him and after the last set of dunes I could see the line, gave my leader the thumbs up and away I left him to cross the line, what a feeling to cross the line, 2200 k's out in the desert, every one of them flat out, I had made it and not only had I made it I had gotten a position, something I never ever thought would happen, all of a sudden i felt fine, I felt I had all the energy in the world, what a relief!

Tim Trenker at the finish line.

Marc Coma at the finish.

Me followed by Vinters on a 690 at the Finish line.

Some where not as lucky as others!

Cyril Depres, the winner of the open class.

Sheik Mohammad presenting me with second in class back in Dubai.

Then it was a short 45 k liaison into the Dubai Marina, for a beer, that went straight to my head, plus I think it was a light beer as well!! Over the ceremonial finish receiving my medal in front of a crowd and also live on TV. Then after a nice shower and a change of clothes it was the gala dinner to receive a trophy, and boy lucky I have other stuff to ship home as it would cost me a fortune alone to send it, it weighs a tone!

All I can say is it was worth it, what an experience, it does go to show that anyone of us can do anything we want to in this world if you want to do it bad enough, does not matter who you are, believe in yourself and keep telling yourself you can do it and you will get there, I did. I have made my dream come true in every way, I finished 11th overall, 2nd in 450's and 1st in my category of rally production, not a bad effort for a non sponsored rider that just rode 7000 k's on a Chinese motorbike, maybe that was the secret!

..............and if this is what racing is about count me in!!!

Ladies and Gentlemen start your engines,

Wow, what a crazy week it has been, getting everything sorted for the big race, I never realized there was so much involved, I think the easy part will be riding the bike! I just can'twait to get into it. I have had two days of scuterneering making sure the Honda CRF is up to scatch, all went well except for a few wiring problems with the sentinal, which is the device that warns me if a car or truck is about to overtake, a loud buzzer goes off, since the bikes start first then the cars and trucks I sure hope not to get passed by any trucks, if I do I guess I will be having a bad day. But again I just keep telling myself to get to the end, enjoy it and have a great time, after all its not everyday one gets to race around a desert with the highest dunes in the world! Better not crash out on day one now!!

Nervous, well not yet but I am sure that will come, but excited I am, I cant wait. Tomoorow is the prologue, just a quick lap around a short track to determine the starting grid of the first day. There is 5 days covering a total of 2200 k's, the actual race legs range from 300 to 400 a day, I am not sure I know what I've got myself in for, to late now, hmm I wonder if Marc Coma is thinking that right now.....some how I don't think so. In total there is 60 Bikes, I am number 57, 20 quads, about 25 cars and a few trucks, for my second race in my life I kinda picked a big one.

Again if your interested to see how I get on go to http://www.uaedesertchallenge.com/. Oh and by the way for those of you you who are wondering who Marc Coma is he is the number one in the world, the only time I will see him is in the meal tent at night if I finish in time of course!!!

The Next Challenge

Right then there is another twist in The Hard Way Home, its a little of the track but I am now back in Dubai, I can see a few raised eyebrows out there for those who don't know but I am competing in the UAE Desert Challenge, its an endurance race through the desert for 5 days, its always been a dream of mine to do the Paris to Dakar but of course its expensive, now the Desert Challenge is more affordable but still on a world level, all the top riders of the world will compete, the cars and the trucks, for me it will be a challenge which I think most of you now know I enjoy and I believe more than ever if you can make your dreams come true you must, anything is possible! I cant say I will exactly be racing against the best in the world but at least in the same race as them! I will pilot a CRF450 X rally bike, of course a Honda as my weapon of choice, what else is there, maybe a Sunik, nah clutch problems!





The race starts on the 24th of October and goes for 5 days, it is a test of man and machine at the highest level, I cant wait and I would be lying if I said I am not as nervous as hell!! So I hope that I have loads of support and the more encouragement the better, I do always enjoy receiving emails from everybody and anybody, the race can be seen online at http://www.uaedesertchallenge.com/ and it will have live updates as it unfolds.





My goal is to just make it to the finish line. Wish me luck.

Beautiful Laos

We rode up to the border of China and Laos on the last day of our Chinese visa, perfect timing. Now how would this all go, what would happen to our vibrating toothpicks?? They asked for the papers on the Chinese side and we presented the receipt and another piece of paper that simply said how many gears the bike had and other particulars, useless really but we had to give them something, and again it worked, we received our exit stamp and rode out of China, now to get them into Laos.

We made it into Laos!



The Laos side was so so pleasant, I had forgotten how friendly these people are, such beautiful people, they stamped us in and asked for the bike papers, we again handed over the receipt of purchase, written in Chinese remember, the customs guy looked at it and said I cant read this and we both replied well either can we, he laughed and waved us in, holy shit we now could ride across Laos to Thailand on our Toothpicks, we were not happy because we love riding them we were happy to the fact that we did not have to back pack and we could ride that bit further, it was only Thailand now that remained the question, could we actually ride all the way to Bangkok?

The Plain of Jars

Images of Laos

We had at least 10 days to get to Bangkok before we would be reunited with our trusty great Honda's which we loved more an more every day with every kilometer on the Toothpicks! So some time for a slower pace, some Beer Laos and relaxing along the way. But of course when one has such adventure and the pace slows the mind gets thinking, instead of taking the nice normal road all the way South to the Thai border we decided to take a track through the jungle and of course its still the rainy season, what the hell why not. After visiting the plane of jars, which are huge rocks carved as jars on a plane, title explains itself really we set off into the jungle and of course it started to rain. And again what lay ahead were things I had never done, we started to have to cross rivers and the more it rained the higher the rivers swelled and the faster they flowed, one crossing my Toothpick was actually floating away as Dirk and I hung onto it tight not letting the current wash it down the river, other rivers we had to use Bamboo rafts to get them across. It was pouring so hard it was impossible to see but our toothpicks just slowly picked their way through the mud until one huge river were about half a dozen people already were sitting under a little hut, the river was to swollen and two deep. So we waited all under the hut, the locals said maybe three hours and it will drop, OK we have time. We waited about an our and on the other side of the river more locals arrived on their own little scooters, got off and 5 of them carried the bikes across the river, well if they can we can, we asked for their help and we all carried the 2 toothpicks across the river, with a round of hand shakes we were off again.

Steady she goes captain.

Another crossing, wide one this time.

Carrying the bikes across the river.

It may have a cheeta on the side but its far from fast!

Time for some fun, Sunik circle work.

Then came the muddiest road I have ever been on in my life, plus remeber there we were on Chinese 150cc's with three people and loads of luggage, mud so deep that the road was completely impassable for anything at all but we poked along mud hole by mud hole and eventually came out the other end, again we made it across another country on the toothpicks and the adventure was priceless, people would pay huge money to even attempt what we did, what a time we had.

The Mud caked onto the Toothpicks!

So with 3 days before our Honda's would arrive in Bangkok we were at the Laos Thia border, so after one last night in Laos we tried Thailand with our toothpicks.

We carried the bikes onto a small boat and crossed the Mekong river to the Thai side and then carried the bikes up a very steep flight of stairs, was quite a struggle but a few onlookers saw it was not easy for us and helped out. The Thai officials were lovely, they never said we could not bring them in but needed to find out what to do, after about 2 hours the paper work was done and again we were allowed to ride in Thailand, that was it, great I would be able to achieve what I always wanted and that was to ride a bike every inch of the way, yeah it was not the same bike but still a bike, besides I already had one bike stolen so whats it matter if it was a few bikes. I was so happy that we exited the customs compound and I looked left then right and all was clear well so I thought, Thailand is back to left hand drive and its been a long time for me to drive on the left, I pulled out looked up and there almost in my lap were to girls riding a scooter, I swerved sharply only just missing them, wow concentrate Robbo I thought, need to just get to Bangkok!

So by the time we hit the road to Bangkok it was about 1 pm, it was 700 k's to the capital and we would reach it in 2 days. We let the sun set on us so now it was already dark and I think we had similar thoughts lets go until we can't anymore. Then it rained and rained, so since now we were wet we thought lets go all the way that way we do not have to get up the next day and put on wet clothes, one thing is for sure we have determination, any normal person would have stopped along way back, either that or we are stupid, maybe its the later!! It became cold, soaked to the core, so here we were in Thailand breaking the number one rule of all the travel, riding at night and not only at night but in the pouring rain an freezing bloody cold.

We stopped for some fuel and were both shaking from the cold, hardly been able to move and both needing to go to the toilet we again had a similar thought, standing there already completely wet we just went to the toilet, it was so so warm, arrhh!

We pushed on all night, my clutch was slipping so badly that at times I could only get 60 k's per hour from the toothpick then with steady throttle control it would take about 10 k's to get the speed up to 90 again, plus when the rained stopped the engine would heat up and the clutch slip more but when it rained the engine cooled and the clutch slipped less so the faster I could go, bit crazy but of course the harder it rained the harder we went! With my tinted lens I had to ride with it up all the night, how I saw I am not sure, over taking trucks squinting through the mist until I popped out the other side, yeah maybe we are stupid actually.

We rolled into Bangkok at 1 minute to 1am, we made it, straight to a pub for a celebratory drink, we bloody did it, amazing, we rode the toothpicks from one side of China to the other and all the down Laos and onto Bangkok. The next day we got word that the Mother ship and the Old Girl had arrived early to Bangkok so off to the airport we went to be reunited, was it a great sight to see the boxes they were in and even a better feeling to open them up. It took us all day to clear the paper work and a few hours to put them together to ride them into town. The first time I hit the starter and head the rumble of the faithful V-Twin gave me goose bumps, what a sound. Riding off was a bit strange, wobbly, as it felt heavy, but boy when I screwed the throttle it felt like I was going to launch into outer space, out the airport terminal we went turned onto the highway and into it, I screwed the throttle hard, gave the handle bars a slight pull and up on the back wheel it rose, a bunch of Thai taxi drivers all pointing and hooting, we roared our way into Bangkok city, wearing flip flops, shorts and T-shirts, again it was exciting to have them back. We did it!

A Race Through China

That's exactly what it was, not a ride but a race and boy was it crazy to say the least. With my mother ship and Dirk's old girl as he calls it sitting in a container in a yard somewhere in Ulaan Batar we bordered the train bound for the Chinese border for the second time in a week. The train journey down was an interesting start to an adventure of great proportions, the mongols sell 8 tickets to a compartment that only has 6 beds! And of course the mongols sharing our compartment were wise to this hence the reason they all claimed a bed the moment we bordered, great it was going to be a long 15 hours south. After sitting on the hard seats for what felt like an age, eating noodle soup and having some old crusty Mongol man try to lay a kiss on me I had had enough and found refuge and a place to lay in the luggage rack over head, rock hard but I think I managed to get an hour or so sleep. As the the train rattled along in the night I thought about how it was only a week ago I was just out there wrestling the mother ship through the Gobi Ocean and nearly freezing to death, maybe this train option was not such a bad way to go after all!

So there we were back at the border, as we exited Mongolia again I wondered what would unfold would our plan work, Chinese officials were slightly confused wondering why we had a cancelled entry stamp into their country only a week ago, we waited a long time before they finally decided we were no great threat and let us in, Ok step 1 down next was to find our new transport. Into the town of Eronhot we began step 2 and that was to buy a Chinese motorbike! The first shop we entered would be the last, bingo we had found what we were looking for. We picked out 2 brand new Sunik 150 cc motorbikes. The first one Dirk took for a test ride and they are a little different to the Africa Twin, well a lot different, for starters the gears are all down and then its possible to go from top gear to first in one motion, not used to the new gear box system Dirk was flying down the road with speed and went from top to first, the motor screamed a cry of stress and the bike came to a stop, hmm not good, back into the shop with it and it would not start, we quickly decided we wanted another one, that was one destroyed already! So after picking another we eventually had them ready to go. After my short test ride all I could think is this thing is a death trap, all the way across China on this!

Preparing to race across China.

The Vibrating Toothpick

So off we set on our new buckets of shit, no rego, no number plates, no licence, just a bit of scribble in Chinese that was a receipt, what were we doing? We made it out of town about 3 k's and the first problem, Dirks bike was leaking fuel, so we headed back to the shop and they replaced the carb for him. Take 2, away we rode this time making it about 5 k's and again another huge fuel leak, back again, this time they put two fuel filters in for us and cleaned out Dirks new carb as it was full of crap. By this time it was to late to try another attempt, we were defeated for the day and got a bed in a hotel, tomorrow we would try again to leave Erenhot for the third time.

Brand new nothing had fallen off yet, but that was only after 5 k's!

Now the biggest problem we had was the fact that we only had a visa valid for 16 days, not the usual 30 days China usually give, they only issued us with the period that we said we would be there for. In the beginning we thought it would be enough but in time it would be a problem.

So the following day saw us get out of town and across the plains of Inner Mongolia, the roads perfect, long and straight. Wow the bikes what absolute heaps of shit they were, 0-80 in about 1 minute, cruising speed of about 70-80 and viabrate, I could feel the fillings in my mouth rattling loose as the whole bike vibrated beyond belief, that's how they then became known as "The Vibrating Toothpicks"

They vibrated so much that even on day one things started to fall off and not work but there was nothing we could do about it as something new would bounce down the road, what did we expect only paying 563 US dollars a peice, we just pushed on and after a few days we thought all we will be left with at the end is a frame and motor! The first few days saw us pass through an industrial belt of China and mining area, I became depressed, the pollution was horrendous, all I could think is this world has no hope at all, the air was so thick with pollution that it made you choke, the world had just seen China on centre stage with the Olympics but I am sure no one ever thought of what else gos on in China, I really had a negative feel for the country and just wanted out. Every day there was something new, one night we went into a restaurant which was so full of smoke I again nearly choked, but the people lovely, they gave us some beer then took photos of us with their entire family, wives, kids, husbands, then when it came to the bill they insisted we don't pay, nice, then back to the hotel for a shower, so here I was in a open bath room washing myself and I turn around to see a China man taking photos of me on his phone, after telling him you cant do that he took another, hmm strange people as well, maybe he has never seen something as big.........that's my receding hair line of course!!

Always some on lookers, and the hotel I had my nude photos taken!

We arrived in the city of Xi'an, with a quick trip to the Terracotta warriors we pushed on. With our small sight seeing out of the way we pushed the toothpicks hard, talk about lost in translation, it was at times impossible to ask for directions, we would pronounce a town our best Chinese 100 different ways but still they could not understand us. Then the traffic it was crazy they don't look to cross the road as a pedestrian, they don't look to turn left or right, they simply do not look what so ever. On one occasion were flying along Dirk in front of me and there was a truck in the middle of the road going the same way as us, often we would overtake on the inside as it was safer, as Dirk got closer to the truck it decided to vear to the right, Dirk ran out of room as he tried stopping on a machine with not the most best brakes in the world, the truck pushed him right off the road, then where was I to go, I grabbed the brakes hard but it seemed to not do a thing, I needed to stop and stop fast, nope no chance as I slammed into the back of Dirks bike, with the typical crunching noise that goes with indicators and tail lights smashing. We just stood there and laughed our heads off! Another mishap that I laughed my head off with was Dirk was following a Honda civic along a rough road and the car stopped in front of him suddenly to slow for a bump but Dirk could not stop in time again due to the brakes been rubbish, he hit the back of the car denting the bumper, his bike went down but he was ok, but the amazing thing was as he hit the car the car also went over the bump and did not even feel or realise that a bike had just slammed into the back of it, it drove away, I just laughed in my helmet thinking we were about to get in some trouble now. Also the seat foam on my bike became so compressed that after the first hour in the saddle every morning I was sitting on the frame, so now the vibrations really went directly to my spine.

We entered one city and our first problem with the police, a traffic cop stopped us, hmm shit here we go I thought that was the end of our China attempt, an on looker spoke some English and told us we had no plates and needed rego papers, quickly we replied with a few small stories, we said we were told that we did not have to rego our bikes for 30 days after purchase and that we got this permission from the traffic police in Beijing, it worked, then the licence issue we pulled out our International ones which mean not a thing in China and the cop knew this, again we said we got permission from the traffic cops in Beijing, amazing it worked, he let us on our way. Would we make it accross China I thought, seems like I thought that very question alot??

Safe parking in the Hotel.

Time was of the issue so we started trying to get on the expressways which of course do not allow bikes on them. We would approach the toll booths pick a lane and go for it, flying past the booth with a Chinese person yelling out and blowing whistles at us, then we would slip past the boom sometimes not enough room, I smashed my mirror a few times clipping the boom, but the going was good on the expressway that's for sure, and then to get off it we had the same story dodging boom gates and officials. But then of course we pushed our luck to far, one toll we flew through there were two policemen standing there but we flew past leaving their screams disappear behind us, on we went pushing the toothpicks hard, vibrating like hell until 20 minutes later in my mirror the police car appeared, pulling along side me with sirens blaring and one of the cops screaming into the load speaking, shit this was serious, we pulled over and they hoped out, one cop coming at Dirk with a baton, screaming like hell in Chinese with a very mean look on his face, time to play the only card we had up our sleeves, the dumb white man card, off with the helmets turned the situation in our favour once they saw we were not Chinese, the baton was put away and the aggressive look put away as well, they seemed stumped, you could see them thinking shit what now they are not one of us! One tried some English explaining we could not ride on the expressway, of course we knew but after a while we said, "Oh you mean we cant ride our bikes on here?" Meanwhile the other cop was now taking photos of us on his phone, great looked like we would get out of this one. So know here we were riding down the expressway with a police escort, lights a blazing, all the way to the next exit. Once off and some more photos, hand shakes all round and big smiles, away we rode, laughing again. Of course down the road we went until the next entrance back onto the expressway, straight back on we went, seemed we would not get in to much trouble so why not!!

By the time we made it in the south, my blinkers stopped working, my front fairing bounced down the road, head light popped off, uses a litre of oil every 3 days, there fore smokes like hell, clutch slips like nothing else and I started getting punctures, I loath punctures!

Making it to Xi'an, about half way.

Road side snack.

Maybe more your taste, dog anyone?

 

We reached the city of Kunming in the south with 3 days to go therefor manged to have a day off, to get our Laos visa and get a hangover from a night in a jazz bar, we needed it to say the least, the question remained still would we be able to get the bikes into Laos if they last the remaining 700 k's to the border.

On the road to the Laos border the scenery turned into the jungles of South East Asia I know, and the humid weather, I felt again ever so close to making it home, familiar territory soon, having travelled to Laos 5 years ago when I first left Australia, shit I have never been back since not even for a visit, but here I was approaching the border on a bike that 15 days ago I doubted would never make it, one thing is for sure it did not look like it did a few weeks back but we had done it, step 2 we crossed China on a 150 cc Chinese bucket of shit, what a challenge it was, everyday full of excitement. Also China for me was amazing, in the beginning I wanted out, I was disappointed to see what I did but it was not all like that, it was completely the opposite, very beautiful, mountains, very green, rivers and streams winding everywhere, I was quite impressed.

Its hard to write the events of every day in China, each day was an adventure in itself and I would need for ever to tell it all, put simply it was crazy, we did it and there was never a dull moment, for Dirk and I it has become normal life-pulled over on a Chinese expressway a place not meant for bikes and as for the bikes, well they covered 5000 k's in 15 days, they did alright, maybe they aren't that bad after all!

The Gobi Desert, Chinese Officials and a Dwarf!

This is the story how I ended up in a Ger with a Dwarf!

Ok we left for the Chinese border late in the afternoon, there were three of us, we gave Anna from Poland a lift to the border, we set off and it was absolutely freezing, after covering 250 k's on perfect tarmac it was time to find a place to camp all chilled to the bone we headed for a Ger tucked in behind a wooden fence hoping to pitch the tents out of the wind. Luck has it the family invited us in to thaw by there fire and and even better sleep on their floor.

Day two saw us into the Gobi Desert following the arrow on the GPS opposed to trying to pick one of the many tracks snaking in every direction across the desert. The temperature improved dramatically the further south to China we rode. After a long day we managed just over 400k's and found a camp under the stars of what we imagined to be our last night on Mongolian soil.

The next morning it was a short 50 k's into ZammUd, the border town with China. Immediately Anna found the truck driver that she had hitchhiked with a few weeks earlier, everything was falling into place, he was half Kazak/Mongol so therefor spoke Russian and was able to converse with Anna who spoke some Russian also. Between us we spoke, French, German, Polish, Russian, Flemish and all I had to offer was English and of course the Aussie version, quite useless really!! Anyway luck had it he was heading across the border in his truck in 30 minutes, with not a minute to think about it we loaded the bikes onto the truck. This was an effort, building a makeshift ramp I walked the bikes up with men each side, as I took the second one up the plank snapped, here I was about 6 foot of the ground holding 250 k'gs hoping like hell the plank did not give all the way and squash me, after some yelling and pulling it was in, both bikes strapped down we all bordered the truck for the border. At this point I was shitting myself, what would happen, I did not want to loose another bike, I did not want to head back to Ulaan Bataar, I did not want to be cold again. Out of Mongolia we went, no problems, next China. Unable to go any further in the truck we had to leave the bikes and our driver behind, we had to trust him! We entered into China via a lift in an old Russian jeep, which had a man hiding low in the bike trying to sneak in, all a bit bizarre, China officials went well for me but not so for Dirk, they found his little motorbike camera and questioned him over it, took the SD card from it to view what was on it, eventually they returned it and let him in, we were in China, I could not believe it, now just the bikes to come, I was passing like a tiger in a cage. So here we were, Dirk, Anna and I all sitting by the road side in China waiting for our truck who had all our gear, bags, helmets everything, again I was concerned would we pull it off??

A friend of the truck driver came through the gate in another truck, he gestured to us that our truck was coming shortly, all of a sudden we started to talk about which road to take, how far to go, then a phone call it was our truck driver, he wanted me to go to him at customs! Oh shit what was this, I walked the 500 meters to the customs terminal, into the building I went and gave my best friendly Nihow I could do. One guy spoke English and immediately said, your bikes can not come in. I tried everything, made up stories how one was broken and we could not fly it from Mongolia as the plane was not big enough and we had to transport it to Xian to fly it to Bangkok, they understood but every time the reply was At the moment China is special time, Olympic time, these are the rules! Shit this was it we would go no further, reality set in, I always expected it but to get so close. I tried gesturing a bribe, money for a blind eye, again a No, that was it, at this point I felt I tried everything I could and was finished. I walked back to Dirk and Anna and told them the news. At this point another problem was born, this time when I went to the gate where Dirk and Anna were there was a young policeman wanting to see my passport. I showed him then tried explaining that the customs officials wanted to see the other two people I was with, he simply shook his head, we were not allowed back to the customs building where I had just walked from. So here we were in China, our bikes and bags stuck back at the customs point and a stand off with a policeman, everything we tried he would not let us in. We stood there for half an hour, this whole time the Mongol truck driver needed to get to his job in China but he had our two motorbikes in the back off his truck which were not allowed into China, Jesus what a bloody predicament.

Eventually he saw the light and we gave our passports up to him and went back to customs, not ideal but it was the only way. Now it was Dirks turn to try his negotiation skills, again all efforts met with the same answer, even Anna had a shot but nothing, that was it, we tried but had to go back to Mongolia, the question was could we, we had been stamped out!!

Now it was getting late, our Mongol truck drivers boss was ringing him asking where the hell he was. He had to go, but after talking with the Chinese customs they said we could not ride back to Mongolia, we would have to leave our bikes there and maybe tomorrow or the day after we MIGHT get them back, shit this was not what I had in mind. We talked fast I said no we need the bikes today we take them to Mongolia now! After some thought he agreed and now we had to go with him into China to collect our passports, we all climbed into a Toyota drove to the gate, Anna jumped out, we got our passports, said a quick farewell and left her just standing by the road side in China, for Dirk and I we were taken to Immigration for our visa stamp, they at least only cancelled our entry stamp so our Chinese visa was still valid, then escorted us out the door we entered earlier and pointed us to Mongolia. All this was going on while the Mongol drove his truck with our bikes back to Mongolia, the Chinese customs told him he had 30 minutes to return otherwise he would not enter China today. We stopped a jeep full of Mongols and clammed in, squashed we drove to the Mongol side where we found our truck waiting. With no where to unload our bikes we found two men standing about interested in the commotion, right you two lift I said, we hauled the bikes straight out the back of the truck no ramps no nothing, 250 kg's hitting the ground with a thud, our truck driver bid us farewell but not before we slipped him a considerable amount for the trouble we caused him and then he drove back to China! Holy shit what had just happened, it was all so quick and rushed, so here we were loading our panniers back on wondering will Mongolia let us in? both exhausted and tired of worrying we began to laugh about the whole days events. So into Mongol immigration, we simply said, "China No", the man laughed as if to say yeah you two ain't the first! We were taken up to the big boss's office he quickly took out a stamp, stamped our passport handed them back and that was it, we rode back into Mongolia without our helmets on, looked at each other and burst out laughing, my thought was is this all real, can you believe what just happened. We had enough time to fuel up and get out the road back into the Gobi and find a camp before sunset, pot noodle for dinner, what a day!

I guess it was expected, everyone said I would not make it and I suppose all those people are right, but many people gave encouragement and I thank you all, the thing is I tried and I tried my best nothing more I could do, if I had never given it a shot I would never know, now I do. Been there done that.

As I went to sleep little did I know things would only get even more interesting in the next 24 hours beyond anything I have experienced in the 1 year 11 months and 2 weeks I have been on the road! Remember the Dwarf has not even entered the picture yet!

During the night I woke thinking a car was approaching with its lights on but then I realised that it was a lighten show going on in the sky, hmm it was raining somewhere but as long as not on my tent I was happy. I drifted back to sleep until morning. Day break saw a few clouds in the sky but the ground was still dry, no rain, at least where we were. We set off and for the first 30 k's the going was good across the dusty Gobi tracks. Then it began, a light drizzle in the beginning which was good as it made the sand firmer and stopped the dust. But the rain got heavier and the ground wetter, at times the mother ship began skating across the surface making for a few ring tightening moments, we made it to a small town of Saynshand for some food wet and cold swapping stories with each other of near mishaps of the morning but both managed to keep the bikes upright. It was from this point that it all went wrong, it would be the last time I would see Dirk for the next 24 hours. We set off out of town and decided to take the right side of the train line to follow north, on the way down we had been on the left side, I move a little faster than Dirk and he always tells me just keep going he will get there in the end. After going about 5 k's the conditions were horrible, the ground slippery as ice so I decided to head back toward the train line and swap sides getting back on the side we had come down a few days earlier, I turned my head and through the rain I thought I saw Dirk following in the distance, I found a huge storm drain under the train line and road through it to put me now on the opposite side, away I went the ground was a little higher and the water was soaking in alot better, at times I hit 70 to 80 followed by a huge sideways slide spitting me what ever way the bike wanted to go, making me slow down a little, at times I felt I had no control what so ever, the rain persisted, I was soaked through, freezing cold but it was no place to stop, only I could get myself out of this.

After about an hour and a half I arrived in the next town, 100 k's from the last, I found a small building and walked in, the man in there saw I was frozen to the bone. Without saying a word a Mongol lady got a fire going in the stove and placed a chair in front of it for me to sit, as I shook a huge pool of water formed on the floor beneath me. I thought I would just wait for Dirk who should come along shortly and then push on, the tar road was only 100 more k's to the north, once on that I did not care how cold or late it would be I would just ride all the way to Ulaan Bataar where I new a hot shower would be and a warm be. An hour passed and the fire had almost died out, I was a little warmer but Dirk had still not shown up, I began to worry, I was not keen to stay were I was I wanted to go on, I waited another our and the whole time my fears grew and I really began to worry, it was tough out there in the Gobi but it was only 100 k's from where we left he should have arrived long ago, what had happened, was he OK, had he fallen off, was he out there injured, arrgh I was going mad, what do I do? It still continued to rain, it was about 6 pm by this stage, I had to make a decision for myself, but I could not just leave Dirk out there in hell! I went and filled my tank and started the daunting idea off looking for him but as I headed out, I realised I did not know what side of the train line he would be on and then even if I picked the correct side the tracks spanned a great width through the desert, I did not get far before turning back toward the town, again already soaked through and cold again. I decided I needed to press on, I wanted to go north to Ulaan Batar.

I road out of the town thinking to myself this is crazy leaving him behind like this but I had to look after myself as well, I had to get the hell out of this situation, we were on our own now completely. By now with all the rain the going was extremely tough, Mongolia may be land locked but the Gobi desert had turned into an ocean, so much water on the planes it came over my windscreen and hit me in the face, having to drive with my visor up since it was almost dark and my tinted lens did not enable me to see a thing, the rain whipped in on my cheeks and stung like needles, the wind grew stronger, I was telling myself I need to to keep going I cant stop, there was nowhere to stop, I did not want to be there, where was Dirk. I got with in 40 k's of the tarmac and I could not feel my hands anymore, they hardly functioned on the throttle and clutch, my feet would not work, one thing that did the mother ship it just kept on going through what ever I pointed it at, I asked it not to stop, not now, not out here please keep going but I could not go on, I saw from the corner of my eye a Ger of in the distance through the rain, it had smoke coming from its chimney, that's it I cant go any further, tomorrow is another day, it would have been about 2 or 3 degrees with a chill factor bringing it much much lower, I needed shelter, I rode over to the Ger and prized my fingers from the grips, the occupants of the Ger must have heard the bike and the door opened, there standing to great me was a Dwarf, nothing against Dwarfs what so ever but it made me smile even ion this situation, of all Gers to pick in Mongolia I picked one owned by a Dwarf. I entered dripping wet, frozen to the core again. Again I said nothing I could not cause of the cold and also the fact that I was here and where the hell was Dirk, the thought that he was out there somewhere in this inland sea go me down. Also in the Ger was an old lady and a young boy, they stoked the fire and I started to thore out bit by bit, drying my boots, gloves, jacket, every layer I had on, they cooked me dinner, rice and pieces of mutton served up with lots of hot tea, after dinner I hit the sack straight away completely spent, the wind howled outside and the rain pelted against the walls of the Ger.



One of the only photos I managed to take in this mad adventure but I think the most important!

Morning came and the Dwarf heated up last nights dinner for breakfast, the wind had reduced but best of all the rain had stopped and the sun was out, this gave me a better feeling but I still wounded where in the hell was Dirk. I bid farewell to my host family of the night and hit the Gobi for the last stretch to the tarmac, the rain had soaked away and the going was near perfect, I stretched the legs of the mother ship, ripping a fresh track across the desert. I made the tarmac in no time with great relief, still I frozen through so stopping for fuel the lady at the petrol station saw my state of shivering and invited me in to warm on her hot plate, why not I could wait for Dirk awhile, I figured if he made it to the previous town the night before he should be here any minute. I waited an hour and again nothing, I had come to far to turn around so decided top press on. I continued another 150 k's before the lack of fuel and money made me stop in a town 80 k's out from Ulaan Batar, I had about 100 ml of fuel left and a 50 US note, I set about trying to find somebody to change it for some Turgiks, Mongol money but none would even the bank I found refused so all I could do was wait now for Dirk to arrive, if he was still coming that was.

I waited about an hour and there over the horizon was a sight I was relieved to see, it was Dirk! When he pulled up I we gave each other a hug and I said I thought I would never say this but Fuck am I glad to see you!! We exchanged stories, I was more interested in his, he had fallen off for the second time and once he stopped sliding in the mud he looked back and his pannier was about 20 meters behind him, it had been ripped of in the crash, this took him time to repair it and get mobile again, he made the town I waited in about an hour after I left and he slept there, about 60 k's south of the Ger I was sharing with a Dwarf! Now with some funds from Dirk we filled our tanks and rode the last 80 k's into Ulaan Batar, we were back, I could not believe it, what an adventure it had been just to try the impossible of trying to get into China, its amazing what determination makes you do, I am glad I gave it a go.

Now there has been another plan hatched and all I will say is China has not seen the last of me yet, its not called The Hard Way Home for nothing now is it! Stay tuned.

Mongolia and beyond

The departure of Russia was even more painful than the entry, made the border at 9am, as I rode up to the mongol side of the border I glanced at my clock on the dash, was after 4pm, all that time just to pass through the Russian side, the Mongolian side went smooth. Finally here I found myself in Mongolia, to me its always been in the back of my mind since leaving South Africa, the furthest country away before heading south again toward Oz. I was here, the last great remote wilderness. And that's exactly what it is, they call it the country with no fences, with its wild open treeless plains surrounded by mountains carpeted in green grass it sure gives a feeling of the last frontier and of course if the scenery doesn't the roads sure do, well there lack of, without GPS I think it would be tough, well a lot of driving in the wrong direction might happen. The country is just like one big paddock with tracks just going everywhere in all directions, as long as I pointed the mother ship in the right direction I'd get to where you needed to go. It would be 2500 k's of dirt track to the Capital.



Double hump Camels, called Bactrain camels


The roads payed the price on the Steed, the mount on my dash snapping in half, the same happened on the old bike in Angola. So we managed to find a welding machine in a small town, it was at the Mongolian Army post, with a few cows walking around the compound and the gates hanging of the hinges we cranked up the diesel motor and armed with a welding rode as think as my finger we tried welding it up, well more like throw bits of metal at it. Well it held for about three days until snapping again about 300 k's out of Ulaan Bataar, this time I just held it up with my left hand all the way to the capital.

A local checking out the mother ship.

Also my rectifier blew one evening toward sunset and therefor overcharged my battery resulting in a then blown battery. So going to a Ger near by I asked the locals if they could take my bike to the next town about 45 k's away, we negotiated a price and set off with the bike loaded in the back of a small truck. Stuff it, the first time in 75 000 k's that I have transported my bike, damn it, oh well might be a sign of whats to come with the problems of China. And beleive it or not but I found a new battery in the town, not exactley the right one but it will do the job, sometimes luck is on my side.

These mounds are everywhere, the blue ribbons are tired on praying for a safe journey.

A monestry on the flat plain.

Local man in local dress.

With yaks, the two humped Bactrain camel, sheep, horseman grazing their heards on the steppes of Mongolia, really gave a sense that these people still live how they did hundreds of years ago. Every afternoon it was not a matter of where to camp it was a matter of when to camp and when you did just simply turn off the track and pick the nicest grassy spot, one huge camp ground.

One morning I woke with Yaks walking through the camp.

Taking a break.

After 6 days and a Mongol thieving Dirks goggles we made it to Ulaan Bataar, more modern than expected and a vast contrast to rural Mongolia, but still pleasant. So on Monday it was off to the Chinese Embassy, for the third time since leaving Dubai, this time we went prepared with a fake booking for an airline ticket and a deposit put down for two weeks accommodation in a hotel, this is our last chance to get a visa, we cant fail. After lining up for an age we spoke with the man behind the window, it looked good, until I discovered I forgot my photo!!! But alas this was not all we did not have, they wanted copies of everything and proof of enough money, come back Wednesday, its only open Monday, Wednesday, Friday. So Two days later we rock up again, this time early to get in the front of the cue, an hour and a half early saw us 4th in line, then it started to rain, by time the embassy opened we where soaked from head to toe, not willing to loose our spot in the line, this time it went with great success, we ere told we can have visa and will be ready Friday, fantastic, if they only new we really want to ride our bikes into their country!

Arriving in the capital, Ulaan Bataar.

Now that is still a huge drama, it is the worst time in the past century to try and get a bike into China, and no body has a positive thing to say, but that is the way it is. We even have met some great expat chaps who have put us in touch with freight forwarders on both sides to try and at least get the bikes over the border but today I received news from a Chinese man called Roger that we will not be able to even do that, so its back to plan A of simply riding the 700 k's to the border, finding a local guy with a truck, taking our bikes over as transit goods, driving down the road and off loading them for us to ride into the huge country of China, my thoughts are maybe in the past was possible but now well I just am not sure. I can see us riding the 700 k's back here to UB and flying the bikes via Seoul to Bangkok. So today we picked up our passport with a Chinese visa in it, that's step one of four conquered. Steps two is getting the bikes into China, step three is riding across China and step four is exiting China to Laos. Anything is possible but this time I think its beyond me, completely out of my control, the feeling is not good. So the plan is to leave here in a few days for the border, if I have not updated my blog with in a week, it will mean one thing, we are in China, because if we get in it will be south 4500 k's to Laos as quick as we can, or it could mean we are stuck in no mans land trying to get back into Mongolia with out a visa because our bikes never got into China, actually it could mean a load of things if I have not updated my blog in a week or so, but I will make sure I keep you all posted, exciting but daunting!

Vodka and Kalashnikov

Yep only can mean one place, Russia! Since it was only 5 days I will keep it short but I am amazed at what can happen in a short time.

Arrive at the Russian border-takes forever, in one room I stood waiting along with a mix of a dozen or so Russians and Kazakhs, this is a conversation I had with one man-
Man "Atkuta?" (which in Russian means where are you from?)
Me "Australia"
Man "argh Kangaroo" (which I have heard to many times)
Me "Atkuta?" pointing at the man
Man"Russia" with a proud look
Me "argh Kalashnikov!"
The whole room burst into laughter, I wasn't sure what way it would go down.

This corner of Russia still has infrastructure of the old soviet.

Anyway into Russia and what a beautiful place, it was like I was in Austria, alpine forest, high mountains, fresh air. We decided to take a short cut, never ever again, there is no such thing as a short cut, end up taking a trail that turned into something Sir Edmond Hilary would only tackle, at times we would have to stack small rocks around big rocks and make our own road, carry, lifting 300 kg's of motorbike, covering 400 meters in 2 hours, in the end it became impossible, one thing is for sure our determination was high. Both exhausted we returned over what we had just covered, one difficult part was an old wooden bridge, this time as we wheeled my bike over it a plank collapsed under Dirks foot, as he fell he pulled my bike on top of himself, I could not hold the weight, he screamed "get it off, get it off!" I had to run around his side and lift the whole 300 kg's of his leg, how I don't know. I knew he was OK when his first words were "I was always a bit of a screamer!" What a situation. As we crossed one final rocky creek bed, Dirk hit the deck only meters from some Russians camping by the river, both exhausted we decided to camp there with them.

Lots of rivers to drink the crystal clear water straight from.

This was the path we tried, there was hardly a place to walk!

Our new friends turned out to be great hosts even though my conclusion was Mafia when I asked there jobs, they gave us food, cooked us dinner, we went fishing later at night to their special spot on the river, for the hike there out came a 12 gauge semi auto shot gun and of course an AK-47, for what, not the fish but the bears, a lot of bears in this neck of the woods, anyway no fish and thankfully no bears back to the camp and out came the Vodka, watching the bottle disappear I was thankful but then out came the Cognac!!

Bear country!

Next morning before departing I was handed the Kalashnikov, loaded and the Russian suggested shot shot, what would going to Russia and not letting a few rounds fly through their most famous export, I let loose, when in Rome!

Our Russian buddies

Made in Russia

Near the border of Mongolia

Changing tires in the biggest workshop on the planet.

So then back around the way we should have taken in the first place, eventually reaching the Russian Mongol border on day 4, changed tires and check the bike over, one last night camped in Russia on a river, staring up at the stars I thought whats next, Mongolia!!

Kazakhstan

After a week in Bishkek waiting for Dirks Kazak visa I was bored senseless, then to top it off I fell ill with a horrific stomach bug, gut wrenching pain and of course the not so nice result from the bowls! But not wanting to spend another minute in the city Dirk and I loaded up the morning after the visa came through and headed for Almaty. Still not feeling the greatest we set off for the short 300 ks we had to do. The border crossing was the easiest I have encounter in a very very long time, through in no time at all, feeling chuffed with the day and flying across the wide flat plains in Kazakhstan \i let my concentration lapse what happen next you’d never guess, I tried a fart and shat myself, so here I am on a treeless plain cleaning my strides out whilst the Kazakhs drove past giving me a toot, lovely, welcome to Kazakhstan!

Yep there I am in Kazakhstan, fantastic.

The stay in Almaty was short, we hooked up with a local Biker, a real biker, for example I just ride a motor bike, by no means am I a biker, these guys were, they ode choppers, I was the only one without a tattoo, leathers, chains, the whole works, lovely people though giving us a bed for our stay in Almaty. For once the visa saga went without a hitch, with Mongol taking a day and and only a transit visa needed for Russia, we had that one in about an hour, then sporting clean underwear it was north toward Russia across a very boring uninteresting landscape of Kazakhstan. It only took us 2 and a bit days to cover the 1500 k’s to the border, so as for Kazakhstan, short sweet, hassle free and no I did not see Borat but I think I may have seen his sister!

Camping in Kazakhstan.

What lays ahead is still a question, well China is the question, I have attempted to get my Chinese visa twice thus far but both times with no success and that goes with many people I have spoke with, China is closed for the moment due to the Olympics, Tibet issues, of course if you have a ticket for the games then sure it is possible but for a smelly traveller like me forget it. Before that anyway it is into Russia and then onto Mongolia-kind of feel like I am headed into a corner, into a very remote corner of the world and then if I get the Chinese visa then I still have to find a way of getting the mother ship over the border and if that happens I then have to try riding it 4500 k's to Loas which is NOT allowed, hmm a challenge lays ahead, if it does not work the options are limited, maybe then I will have to fly from Ulaan Batar to Bangkok over China at of course a very hefty cost. So anyway what ever the case the coming weeks will be exciting and one thing I have learnt is sometimes the impossible is possible!