No dily daly in Dili

I rode into Dili, into a place full of UN cars, some troops with rifles, mad one way streets, and a police presents second to none, it was a different Timor than the rural road I just covered, it seemed weird to me. And expensive, another traveler I met who had just arrived from Australia said Dili is more expensive than Australia, the countries currency is the US dollar, shame it was not bloody Rupiah as I had a truck load of them!!



Wednesday morning arrived, this would be my last day on foreign soil and of course it had to be one of the craziest, of extreme lows and extreme highs. I woke early, so I thought, I was still on Indo time and Timor was an hour ahead so I lost an hour straight away but did not discover this until later. I had to first go to the shipping agent for Perkins to sort out what needed to be done to get my bike on the boat. Also at the backpacker were 2 German lads shipping their bikes as well, they had already been washing their bikes for a day and still had not finished, one of them asked if he could come to the agent with me, so he jumped on the back, we set off and instantly we were pulled over by a cop, as they are just everywhere, what now I thought I have no time!



Then the German guy says to me “I have no helmet” as if he knew that he was meant to have one, argh shit here we go, the cop spoke no English so asked me to follow him to the station, I quickly told the German to get off I will go alone, I did not want to ride into a police station with him on the back wearing no helmet, that would just look even worse. So here I was at the police station, forever looking at the time on my phone, hoping it would not take long. Wrong I was, an officer came into the room and told me that all passengers need a helmet, fair enough I said, very sorry for the mistake now can I pay the fine and go, nothing is ever that simple Robbo! They then had to fill out forms, asking for my license which I produced, then my bike papers which I produced, another problem, they wanted to see my Timor registration papers for the bike, I told him that I was a tourist and that I am just passing through and showed him where customs had stamped the bike in, he could not understand any of this. Now he wanted to fine me for no papers and no helmet of the passenger, this was getting out of hand. I quickly produced my import approval papers for Australia and said “I need to get that bike out there on a ship today its going to Australia”. Eventually he started to see the light of day and agreed to only fine me for the helmet issue of my passenger. Besides it was not me paying, my German friend was getting this bill. So now I had to follow a cop on his bike to another office across town to pay the fine, at this point I question weather the office was open as by my clock it was only just past 7, of course its open they replied pointing to the clock on the wall, it said just after 8, shit I lost an hour just like that and as it stood I had no time! Off to pay the fine, it was 9 dollars, but the system was down and they told me to come back later in the afternoon, I could not but I had to pay the fine as the police were holding my documents and until I produced a receipt I would not get them back, so frustrating. I even tried to give them 10 dollars and let the cop be my witness that I paid the fine and then I go collect my papers, nope they could not see that working, time was passing. They eventually understood my anxious plight and after a discussion they turned with huge grins and said no pay, you can go, my god this was getting crazy now, all this time and to be told I can go, so back to the cop station to explain to them I did not have to pay and collect my papers, they understood and made me sign a declaration saying that the offence happened, I signed it and then got a police escort to the agents office, arriving 2 hours after I first set out, well for me it was 3 as I lost an hour!!



I got the paper work sorted, I needed to have the bike clean by at least 3pm and then get it in the container as the ship was leaving that night. As I went back to my bike the cop was still waiting there, hmm what now I thought, he explained I owed now 20 dollars for the declaration and had to go back to the station, nope this was not an option, I had 4 hours to wash a bike that usually takes 2 days, now weather this 20 dollar fee was for real or not I did not care, it was the German’s money, I gave him the 20 and said I am sorry but I have to go and rode off. What a hectic start to my 2nd and last day in Timor.



I washed and washed, always finding new spots to clean, also there the German’s frantically washed there bikes, I collected my 20 dollars after telling him the story. Eventually I reached the point that I thought would do, the stead was glowing, I just hoped good enough for Aussie regulations. I left the Germans still cleaning their bikes at three, went to the Port, got my customs stamp and immigration stamp out of East Timor, why immigration you ask, I will explain later, then back to the agent with everything in order. I followed a man then to the container yard and road the mother Ship into a container, strapped it down and then got a lift back to the port in a truck, it is at the point that the highs began to happen.

The mother ship ready for its voyage.

At Last!

Finally I got word, the ferry was to start up again, although I was still skeptical and would only know when I was actually on it, so the night before it was due to leave I camped out at the ferry terminal yet again eagerly awaiting its arrival, come morning there it was docked at the wharf, what a joyous sight, so began a very busy next few days. The ferry from Ende to Kupang saw my final ferry ride, Indonesia has just been one ferry ride after another, this one was not bad, the ferry was empty and the ocean as smooth as silk, but the Indonesians love playing there pop music at maximum volume to a crowd of sleeping people, can’t figure that one out.


What a great sight this was.

I arrived at 1 in the morning, quickly I rode the steed off and found a small bit of land in the shadows of the night to pitch my tent, accompanied by a few pigs and goats rummaging for food, it was not long and I was packed up again at 6am and on my way to find custom to attempt in getting my 1000 US dollar bond back I paid entering the country with the bike. After finding Customs I explained the story to their confused faces, then I rang Bernard the Customs guy back in Belawan to explain to them over the phone, it worked but there was nothing they could do, I had to go onto the border town of Atapupu and get it there, I questioned weather they would have that much money there, they assured me they would. Time was not on my side unless I felt like spending a few weeks in Dili, there was a Perkins ship leaving on Thursday, it was now Tuesday and I had to ride to East Timor, reach Dili, sort out the shipping and also wash my bike, now when I mean wash my bike I mean make it look like it just came off the show room, Australian Quarantine are extremely strict and my bike has to be clean enough to eat my dinner off, it took Dirk 2 days to get his old lady clean, so yes time was not on my side.

Kids with home made toys at ferry terminal.

I set off across the last bit of Indonesia and reached Atapupu by midday, the customs guys could not believe how little time it took me to cover the distance from Kupang, I was moving!! So basically I had to go over the whole story again and ring Bernard from Belawan again to explain it all. I could get my money back but the bank was in a town 30 k’s back and if I wanted US dollars it might take 2 days to obtain or the other option was to take it in Rupiah, hmm I guess it was Rupiah for me, so after some discussion about the rate and the ‘fee’ I had to pay for the express paperwork I got a wad of 11 million Rupiah, 975 US dollars back, I was happy enough, I just had to go. Of course all this took 3 hours to happen but I managed to get across the border before the 4 o’clock closing time.

The friendly customs guys at the Indo/Timor border.

Instantly I could see East Timor was a poorer country or at least the infrastructure has been slowed by its rocky past, the roads were in a bad way, a lot of gutted houses and people living in shacks with straw roofs, I liked it and the people seemed very friendly with huge grins and waves as I rode by. The road snaked along the coast and it was quite beautiful, then it hit me, this was it I had made it to the last country before Australia, I could not believe it, I started grinning in my helmet, I punched a fist into the air, a sense of achievement came over me, I felt I had done it, I even gave the tank a quick pat and told the ever trusty mother ship “well done girl, you got me here, what a machine”. So making the most of my last moments I waved to as many people as I could, it was like they were cheering me on to the line, they had no clue where I had come from.

Of course I am not home yet.

Still I wait

I wait, with still no word of a ferry. I have received many words of encouragement from many different people which I appreciate so much and some of you have suggested if I pass through certain areas let them know, I would actually like to do a lap around Australia just to visit everyone of you but I would need another year, but I need a rest and the wallet is almost spent so just to give you all an idea this is my planned route through Australia.

Once arriving in Darwin I will then head south to Alice Springs where I will meet up with a mate of mine, then head out to Ayres Rock for a photo or two with the Mother ship and big red rock and since the Simpson desert is closed we will then head down the Oodnadatta track, yes for you non Aussies that is a word, south through the outback to Adelaide which from there is only a 4 hour ride to the finish line in Victoria. So no Sydney, Melbourne or Perth it’s straight down the middle for me.

But first I have a boat to catch, the island of Timor to cross and again another boat to Darwin before any of the above plan starts.

Deja Vu

My current situation is almost a year ago to the day when I was waiting in Djibouti for the Yemen visa and then the boat, but this time around it seems worse as I am so close to home, its only 1000 k’s in a straight line to Darwin but right now it looks like at least 3 weeks before I will even set eyes on my home land.

A picture of despair, this is Monday morning, there should be people everywhere and a very large ferry docked...but nothing!

Monday came and went, the day the ferry is meant to leave for Kupang, Timor, I was so desperate that against what everyone had told me I woke at 6am and rode the 10 k’s to the ferry terminal just to make sure that it did not arrive in the night, of course it was not there but I just had to see for myself. After running around all Ende trying to get an answer and making phone calls to every number I could find I have found out that there will be no ferries this week and next week, beyond that they are unsure, the seas are just too rough at this time of the year. So for me it’s a very frustrating situation, stuck in a non desirable place with nothing to do at all, it sure does sound like Djibouti all over again. I have even been to the port to find a local fisherman and pay him a considerable sum to take me the 280 k’s across the ocean to Kupang but no one is up for it, the seas must be bad, so all I can do is wait.

Almost an Alien!

This seems like a real test of my patience which at the moment is running very thin, with yet another stone thrower that actually got me, I think the last attention seeker to do that was back in Mongolia, the constant calling out from the people everywhere you walk or ride and even now they have started to yell, F*@K YOU, I am not even sure they know what it means but they seem to get a kick out of it, all their efforts to get my attention go unanswered, I feel tired but its all just heightened due to the fact that again I am so so close to Australia, I have been away from Australia for over 5 years, what’s another 3-4 weeks…nothing I guess!

Always an admirer.

Nice pannier system...buckets!

Amongst the anxious waiting there is still some amazing things on offer, I took a ride to a place called Kelimutu, its another volcano but this one is full of water and the minerals within the holes of the volcano's cone transform the water into different colors as they dissolve, two complete different colors, dark almost black and the other turquoise, it was very beautiful, and I had the place to myself, was a very nice escape from the constant banter that goes on in the towns.

Kelimutu, the dark and turquoise water.

So close together but so different.

Not there yet

I have left the hectic traffic of the Indonesia I first discovered, after leaving the island of Bali, I arrived to Lombok, still with a touch of tourism and busy streets but then after Lombok it was onto Sumbawa, the ferry ride was only 2 hours but it was like the ride took me back 10 years, what a difference, the roads were empty, the infrastructure seemed a lot less and the way of life was so much more relaxing, it was a welcome change. Even at a slow pace I covered the length of the island in no time and with no dramas. Then it was the long ferry to Flores, I arrived at the port in the late afternoon only to be told the seas where to rough so the ferry would not depart until 4am the following day, it was meant to leave at 6 that afternoon, so it meant a long wait at the port for me. The ferry did leave at 4am and for the next 9 hours I put up with loud talking Indonesia, they think they have to scream to be heard, a few small children amongst the crowd who thought it be a test to cry and scream the entire journey and about 20 boxes full 100’s of chickens that the combined chirping was like some kind of torture, I was glad to get of that boat, the longest is yet to come, Flores to Timor, 18 hours, I just can’t wait!!

The Mother Ship aboard a ferry.

Once in Flores it was of to find the dragons, the Komodo Dragons, Given the name due to the island they inhabit, Komodo Island but instead I went to Rinca island where I was told is a lot better to see the dragons, I understand why they are called what they are as ‘Rinca Dragon’ just does not have the same ring to it. Another boat journey for 2 and half hours to the island, paid a fortune to get into the park only to be told, after payment of course, that it’s the wrong time of year to find them, fortunately I did see them, well two and one was quite a size, just like an over seized Australian Goanna actually, docile looking buggers but I did not want to be on the receiving end of its claws or jaws so I kept my distance.

Lazy Lizards

Not exactley a fire breathing dragon, the lizard that is not me!

So with the Dragons spotted it was time to head toward Ende, the final Port on Flores where I will catch the last ferry to the Indonesian side of Timor. Flores is beautiful, again like Sumbawa, a bit back in time, the kids are waving like back in Laos and people are friendly. Also they way they look has changed, becoming more like what we recognize the look of people from Papua New Guinea.

I arrived, in the rain of course, to the Ende port just to confirm the once a week ferry will leave on Monday, the port was dead but I found one guy washing his clothes under a tap, in very broken English he explained yes Monday, after he pointed to the calendar I showed him on my mobile phone but then he said Monday No, and then made waving motions with his hands and blowing noises with his mouth, I figured out the seas where to rough by his gestures, hmm, this is not good, I asked when then?? He pointed to the following Monday on the calendar, Argh shit that was not what I wanted to hear, one more ferry and I might have to wait a week for it. I know it’s only a week out of what the 120 or so I have already done, but I just had my sights set on getting to Dili, and arriving in Darwin.

Well its not 100 percent yet but I will know Monday morning, I will either be on a boat or be in Ende for a week more.

The final push

Tomorrow I will hit the road again for the last time before hitting home soil. I have been here in Bali for just over a week and its time to leave as my feet are itchy. It was not your typical stay in Bali that a large majority of people are here for, I spent it relaxing and eating nice food although on one occasion I headed out with my English mate Jeremy that I met first at Lake Toba then again for New Years in Yogyakarta. It was a strange mix of disco bright lights, loud music and loads of young travellers acting in non human ways, all quite a laugh really, I think my party days are over but all the same it was very entertaining. The next day which was today saw Jeremy and I partake in the other religious activity here in Bali, surfing, all I can say is we will not be lining up to the Billabong classic just yet or in the next few life times for that matter!

As nice as the rest has been it will be nice to leave behind the sun glass sellers, the offers of a taxi every 3 metres you walk, a massage, a T-shirt, you name it it is offered, the most interesting of all was Ephedrine, up there with the hand held tazers, I guess if you get hit by a tazer gun you may need some ephedrine to kick start the heart, I understand now, they go hand in hand!

I have just over a week to make Ende where I will catch a ferry to Kupang, the last of the Indo island, the ferry only leaves once a week, the next is the 19th so that should put me in East Timor a few days later sorting out the boat to Oz, so Darwin around the 28th of January.

So my next update should come from Dili as I wait for my 59th and final border crossing, that's one thing I will not miss border crossings!

Bali

I made it to Bali 17 days after entering the country, I think the mother ship is like a horse, once it has its head turned for home there is no stopping it. Bali for me is where it all began, my first overseas trip 11 years ago with two mates and I seem to not have stopped ever since and Bali is still the same, I can see why I visited when I was 19 its full of young people all here for a bit of fun, hmm do I feel old, not at all, I too was like that once, I seem a little different now and not just the amount of hair I have or there lack of! And of course a lot of Aussie tourist, its almost like the transition period back into Australia for me, I have never heard so many Aussie accents in such a long time….is that what I sound like!

Some funny things you see, check out the two in the right hand corner!





Well the chaotic traffic of Java improved as I went and should only continue the trend now as I island hope to East Timor. The ride was enjoyable skirting the flanks of the many Volcanoes scattered across Java. The most impressive for me was Bromo, an active volcano spewing gas day and night, I got to ride across the lava plains and even one night I spent camped at the base of it, with volcanoes Bromo and Batuk as my back drop, but I was a little close I think as when I woke in the morning my tent was covered in white like ash stuff. And then once I hit Bali I see there has been some earth quakes reported here in Indonesia, where I don’t know but here I was sleeping next to a Volcano!

Doing some off road around the Volcanoes.

Bromo bellowing smoke in the background, parked on a lava plain.

Home for the night, Batuk to the right and Bromo to the left.

Indonesia is such a vast contrast to its neighbor, my home Australia. Since leaving London I have traveled from one country to another and besides going from Spain to Morocco you don’t really see a dramatic change, slight changes, perhaps in religion, food but its always been a slow change of culture and the way the people look but here I am in one of the most densely populated countries on earth, mostly Islamic, Asian looking and hardly a steak to be found and right across the water is completely the opposite, thank god for the good steak part, I think it will be a shock to the system but one I will welcome, except perhaps the price of fuel, I am paying 50 cents a litre right now here in Indo and in Oz will be more than double that I think!

I have received confirmation that I have right to import the mother ship into Australia so that's it, almost all the logistical hurdles are over come, just need to try to get back my 1000 US from the Indonesian Custom authorities, stranger things have happened. So after a rest here in Bali for a few days I am sure I will be eager to make the last leg to Dili, I have the islands of Lombok, Sumbawa, Flores and Timor to go and then after the mother ship is on Perkins shipping its a very short 1 hour and a half flight from Dili to Darwin and just like that I will be there. All so long as the ever so trusty stead continues on, its tired, its started to burn oil, a lot more than I like and the rectifier problem which has haunted me on several occasions has decided to rear its ugly head again but with a bit of patch work I have made it to just go a little further, only about 6000 k's is all I ask, fingers crossed.

I remember doing this on the beaches of Normandy, France, so long ago.

Crazy Times in Java

And I thought the traffic in Sumatra was something, Java is all that and 10 times as bad, my second day in Java saw me travel 150 k’s in 6 hours and that’s on a motorbike, I would hate to be in a car. Its not just the slow pace, its nearly been killed every kilometer, the fumes from the cars, the lack of road rules, which you might think yeah come on Robbo its Indonesia, yes you are correct but here is some examples, keep left or right or actually anywhere you think will slow down the traffic the best, if one drives a car they have the right to overtake, up a hill on a corner and any motorbikes coming in the opposite direction must seek salvage on the side of the road, when pulling onto a road do not look and once on the road slow right down and perhaps stop if you feel a need, the list of madness goes on and on. Most of the day I commentate inside my helmet as the near crashes and amazing maneuvers that go on until I am involved, one truck did decide he was a bulldozer for a second and ram into my pannier hoping to gain valuable millimeters in his quest to go forward, insane.

I dream of the long roads of emptiness in Australia where I will be able to use the full range of my gearbox and not have to change gears very 2 seconds.

Kamikaze Cat

Indonesia the final test, in the way of traffic, its crazy, there are 225 million people in this country and I swear each person owns at least 2 motorbikes! There are millions of them, along with cars, trucks and an array of other contraptions which don’t fall into any of the already mentioned categories, its madness.

I got my bike in, well of course I did, what other option did I have but it came at a price. I tried my best to get it in without paying a penny but I failed and I tried everything, I tried all the tricks I used for other countries but failed every time. Basically Indonesia requires a carnet, that I did know but so did places like Iran and Kenya and I won in the end but not this time. With Akis and Vula waiting patiently I had no option then to pay what they call a security bond, basically if one does not have a carnet they can put down a deposit and then get the deposit back when you exit the country. When they asked the price of the bike I said 1000 dollars, I should have lied even more as this is the amount that I have left with the customs. I wonder weather I will see that money again, they assured me that I will, here’s hoping. The thing is I have not come this far to be stopped by the second to last country, please East Timor let me in, to be stranded here in Indo so I paid, I felt I had to, well I did plain and simple.


Along with the Greeks we headed north to Bukit Lawang to hang out with the Orangutans a while, wow these creatures are just amazing, I have seen them before but it was worth the whole 2 dollars to go see them again. Then the big decision, head north to Banda Aceh or just start the long journey across Sumatra. It’s all physiological not wanting to head north when its south that we wanted but we went north, why not.
Their feet are like hands.

Of course, bananas for lunch.

Amamzing creatures.

In one day it all went wrong, I first did a wheel bearing but with the help of Akis we fixed it in no time at all and then after our lunch break things went from bad to horrible, the Greeks car seemed to seize, the engine was locked tight, they were going nowhere. So that was that, out of all their options it was back to Malaysia to Kuala Lumper to get it fixed so after 2 nice days traveling together I was on my own again. As I rode into Banda Aceh I imagined the Tsunami that hit, the streets would have been as crowded as the day I was there and the people would have not had a chance, to think that over 200 000 people lost their lives here in one day! So now I was as far north as a could possibly be, as I turned the mother ship south I thought to myself this is the last time, its all down hill from here.

The Greek's getting towed to Banda Aceh.

Some evidence stil of the massive Tsunami wave.

Another Xmas on the road, it was my third, the first one Amy and I spent on the Niger river in Mali with Del and Leo, seems so long ago, my second one was in the Omo valley, amongst ancient tribes, with my Spanish and Dutch friends, and this one I was alone at Lake Toba, fortunately in the most populated land of Islam the little island on Lake Toba is Christian so there was a Xmas feel about the place. For me Santa bought two new tires, he could have fitted the bloody things! Well I bought them in Penang and now had to fit them, on Xmas eve I got a puncture so Xmas day I spent fixing the hole and fitting the new rubber but what a difference they turned out to make. Indo is lush and green, everyday at some point it rains, mostly in the afternoon. That has not stopped me from camping, I have managed to camp every night besides Toba, I have slept in a bank car park, under a mechanics tin shed, an old restraint and in the jungle one night. But this comes at a price, I smell , I don’t think I have ever gone so long in the whole journey without a shower and boy at one stage I did not think I could sleep in the tent with myself. I even had a conversation with a nice local, a lot speak ok English, and half way through the conversation he asked me if I wash, hmm I knew what he was coming at but I said, well yes of course I do, he then said "you smell" I had to laugh, aint that the truth I thought.

For the 5th and last time, accross the Equator

Oh and yes the title, how can I forget, even the cats here have mad road sense, on my last day in Sumatra I had been going no more than a few minutes on the wet and slippery road from the overnight rain and then it happened, a crazy cat ran full pace from the bushes, now I could see it had timed its run to late and I gripped the bars ready for my first feline casualty, I dare not break as that would have meant me sliding down the road with the cat, so it was the cat or the both of us and I already new what I wanted, sorry cat, so I held my line then at the last minute it launched at me like a Bengal tiger, well not quite but it leaped into the air and slamming smack bang into my engine bars with a great thud, I looked in my mirror to see how it fared and there it was walking a bit wobbly back to where it first ran from, I guess he was not on his last life……….got me thinking I sure hope I have not used up all mine in this chaotic, no rules, anything goes mayhem called Indonesian road traffic!

Indoneedacarnet!

I am now in Belawan, Indonesia, without my bike...........well its here and I have seen it but there is a problem, 'no carnet' as I expected. The Greeks and I arrived late in the afternoon and Customs had closed for the day, so we set about trying to find somebody to help us, eventually we ended up in the right place and it was here I was told I now have to wait til Monday, its Friday night now, for Customs to open and try to sort something out. The answer may be a cash deposit that I will have to front and then receive it back once I exit the country, hmm I don't like the chances of seeing that money again, now if its only a few dollars then great but I am sure it will be a fair sum, its to stop me selling the bike in Indonesia, if they only understood how badly I want to get this bike back home after all I have been through!

So looks like a nice few days in the beautiful port city of Belawan.......................yes beautiful and port city do not go together!

The Mother Ship sets sail

Although today was a long day it all went quite smooth, after all the paper work was completed it was off to the Port in Butterworth to load Akis and Vulas 4WD and my bike, both bound for Sumatra.

The consignment waiting at the dock in Butterworth.

Hmmm I sure hope the wooden boat does not sink.

The first impression of the boat was a little worrying, old and made from wood but then I thought back to the boat I took across from Djibouti to Yemen, this boat was the QE2 compared to the Yemen boat, so I assured myself very quickly.

First the Greeks 4WD.......

.....and then the mother ship.

The boat left immediately and will arrive to Indonesia in 16 hours, as for us we will catch the fast ferry in the morning and arrive tomorrow at about 3, then begins solving the great mystery of the carnet problem or there lack of. The last country I have to get through with out the carnet, can I do it?? Well of course there is East Timor after Indo but I think it will be OK.

Waiting for the boat in Penang

Only three more countries to get into, including Australia. I made it into Malaysia with out having to produce my rego documents, was the easiest of border crossings, I wish they were all like that but then again where would the fun be if they were!

I travelled down the coast of Thailand with a short stay in Ao Nang to experience more tourists than I have ever seen, was not for me that's for sure, I was in the same place 5 years ago and boy has it changed since then, makes me miss the adventure of Mongolia, the unknown that Africa presented, the wild scenery of central Asia, its more of a holiday now. So that bought about a quick trip down here to Penang, Malaysia where I have been for a week. I sorted out the ferry to Sumatra for the bike, it leaves tomorrow and me the following day, Friday, the same day as the mother ship will dock, fingers crossed I can pick it up on Saturday, but I have been informed that the port is closed on the weekend so Monday is when I will be able to fetch it from Customs, which also is a questions, I was also informed that without a Carnet Indonesia is not possible and that the last guy that tried to take his bike in without a carnet was fined 600 dollars!! But I have heard all that before, remember Iran, Kenya I think was another place I was told I would never get in without the carnet, so again a little fun awaits me across the strait of Melacca, can't wait.


Its a small small world, I have bumped into my Greek friends, Akis and Vula who I first met in Mozambique then again in Ethiopia and recently Cambodia and now staying at the same Guest House on Penang island, they to are heading across the water to Indo so we may head across Sumatra together, at least some company for Xmas and the new year, which I did hope to make Bali for but alas the waiting for the boat has changed my plans.

Rickshaw in front of the Hong Kong Bar, Penang.

I am all ready for the last and final two countries to Oz, it's a long way across the length of Indo to East Timor, around 6000 k's and all of that is windy roads and of course I here millions of bikes, so I think it will takes around 4-6 weeks to cover, so around the start of February I will be on home soil.

For those of you who have asked, the mad Belgium, brother Dirk has arrived today in Dili, East Timor and will be in Darwin as soon as he gets his bike on Perkins Shipping. And I am sure he will be in need of a very cold beer once in Darwin. Merry Xmas everyone

Just another obstacle!

Here I am in Bangkok again, it’s the forth time in a few months and boy am I ready to escape it. After arriving back from Dubai I headed north to Laos and gave entering Vietnam a shot with the bike, sometimes you just never know what is possible. I explained the situation to the border guys on the Laos side so they did not give the bike an exit stamp for Laos, otherwise if it did not work out I would have to pay again to get the bike into Laos which I only exited 20 minutes before. So the short ride to the Vietnam border post with my fingers crossed, the idea of back packing did not appeal what so ever. Things looked promising as I put on a smile but then they discovered that it was a 750, well the sticker on the side of the bike saying 750 is a give away and its not rocket science that there are not many 175cc bikes out there with 2 cylinders, so that was that, a failed attempt.
Quickly I rode back to Laos and found a building that stored corn and paid the owner some cash to park the bike up, packed myself a little bag, far welled the stead and walked back to Vietnam. Then began an epic journey to reach Hanoi.
The truck driver taking a drag!

The slow slow Kamaz.

Fixing the flat tire.

First it was aboard the back of a scooter for the first 50 k’s to a village where I could board a bus, once in the village I was told there was no bus till the next day, great, so I had a bite to eat in a local shop and luck had it I befriended a truck driver who told me I can go with him and his two mates, fantastic I thought. My new ride was an old Kamaz truck loaded to the top with bamboo. So the long trek began, they new I wanted to go to Hanoi but communication between us was difficult and I understood that they could get me close to another city, well this would do me, worry about that later. The truck was slow, I swear I could have walked faster, the driver smoked his bamboo pipe to make the slowness of the journey not so painful, what was in the pipe I think provided him with quite a kick!

Every time I asked how far to go the distances seem to get further and further so in the end I gave up and just sat back to ride out the journey, then in the middle of the road there was an accident between a scooter and 4WD that blocked the whole road, which was quite skinny so until the police arrived we went nowhere, that took over an hour then further down the road a flat tire on the truck, my new Vietnamese friends set about fixing it. Then finally after a very long long day we arrived to the main highway at 11pm and fortune had it I flagged a bus down instantly and was on it to cover the last 100 k’s to Hanoi, I finally arrived after midnight.

Think I will stick to the Honda....and whats that guy doing at the back????

So then for the next 10 days I visited Halong bay and then north to Sapa to visit the Hamong tribes, Vietnam the land of tooting horns and crazy drivers, I was glad not to have the bike there I think but also I was very glad to return to Laos and find the stead exactly as I left it. Then it was back to pleasant quiet, peaceful Laos- a wonderful place. After another week and just traveling across the north again I entered Thailand.

Takes me back to the days of the Sonik.

Rice fields in Sapa.

River crossing in Laos.

Yep Sapa was close to China....this is proof.

It was here I struck some problems, earlier in the piece you read how I rode the bike to Laos-Vietnam border well when I arrived at the border I went to grab my rego papers for the bike and could not find them. I had a photocopy with me to use and just figured that I left the original back in Bangkok and a bunch of other things I left there to pick up upon return, as in now. So there I was at the Thai border with a photocopy of my original rego papers, this paper basically states the bike is mine and some places do not except copies, they want to see the original. Now since I arrived to the late in the afternoon and Thai customs was shut they told me to return the next day to do the paper work, but of course it did not mean back to Laos, just stay there in the borer town the night and come back in the morning. So the next morning I went to go see them and clear the bike but for the life of me I could not find my photocopy of the rego documents, I looked everywhere it could be, but it was gone, hmm, this was a problem but not as big as I realized it would become. So now I had no proof the bike was mine what so ever but I still believed that the original was in Bangkok. Thai customs where great, since the previous day the officer did see me with my papers and now I told him I lost them he let me simply copy the chassis and engine numbers from the bike, so the bike was in, no problems.

The amazing long neck tribe in Thailand.

Beautiful Long neck girl.

It was a quick visit to Chang Rei to see the longneck tribe then Chang Mei. Then it was onto Bangkok where the real problem was discovered, yep you guessed my original rego document was not here, but still I thought I can just ring the department in the UK and get a new one sent out, wrong, wrong, wrong I was, after many phone calls to them they have told me that since the bike has been out of the country longer than 12 months it’s been listed as exported and they can not issue me with a new copy just like that, it will take a letter from me, which I sent and then an investigation by them to decided weather to issue another and this takes minimum 6 weeks! So here I am in Thailand without any proof that my bike is mine and to cross borders I need something official to say the bike is mine, so yes it was my own silly fault for loosing both the rego papers but beauracy in this world makes nothing easy and takes the fun out of it completely. But there will be a way, there always is, I have to get home with my bike.

24 hours on and some progress has been made and I am heading south again. I managed to find a copy of my rego papers on email and print it out, it’s only a copy but I would rather continue on and give getting into Malaysia a shot instead of waiting around for 6 weeks for an answer that could be bad anyway, then its only Indo and East Timor from there. So here I go, the final part, let it be smooth going and let this photocopy get me through.

The Journey Continues

I am back in Bangkok, it seems all a little surreal, did I go to Dubai, did I run around like mad and organise to compete in a race, did I do it, now I am back just like that, I guess I was only gone 18 days, what a whirl wind trip I went on, I rode, I conquered, I returned! I arrived to a dirty old Africa twin which I knew needed some attention as the last day I rode it turned out to be just another adventure in The Hard Way Home or just another normal day I suppose, more on that later this is how I got to that day, the day I flew to Dubai.




After uncrating the mother ship, enjoying some much R & R in Bangkok and giving the vibrating toothpicks to a Thai family, I fair welled brother Dirk and headed the ship north again to Laos. I then headed the rest of the way south down Laos, this time in more comfort, the bike did not vibrate, parts did not fall off and the seat was like a sofa compared to the toothpick! The south was not as beautiful as the north but Laos is quite something. I arrived at the border with Cambodia late one evening and stamped out of Laos, rode the 1 k to the Cambodian side and was told that customs had gone home for the night and that I had to go back to Laos, this was not an option, after a discussion much to our displeasure the Cambodian officials said I could stay there in there hammock, so for the first time in 2 years and about 40 border crossing I was stuck for the first time at a border, that night the mosquitos nearly carried me away and the heavens opened up in a tremendous show of lightning and thunder whilst the rain hammered at the tin roof. The following day saw one tired person and onto Cambodia I rode.

About half way to the capital I decided to attempt a slight detour, yes I will never learn, that would take me to a remote village but half way there the sun was setting and it had just rained causing the front tire to build up so much mud between it and the mud guard that the wheel stopped turning, I fell once but escaped unharmed, it was very tough.

I were defeated, it was dark and I turned back to the last town I had passed, tried checking into a guest house but they all smelt rat infested and stale, then an angel appeared in the form of a young Cambodian girl who invited me to stay with her family, amazing could not have asked for anything better.

Onto Phnom Penh for a few days break where I had the pleasure of catching up with a mate that I had not seen for about 12 years, Jarrod Monaghan who is teaching sport in a school over there, the beers went down well and stories of old flowed. With time running out I then headed to Seim Reap where I bumped into Akis and Vula, the greek couple I met in Mozambique almost a year ago to the day, they are going around the world in a 4WD, its such a small small world. After taking in the splendors of ancient Ankor Wat it was west to Bangkok.

This brings me to the day I flew to Dubai, I left Siem Reap early with about 500 k's to do, cross a border in the middle, grab some left luggage from down town Bangers, then find Harley Davidson Bangkok to park the mother ship with Ross the general manger who I had been put in touch with through another mate, piece of cake, or so I thought! I set of and remember saying to the stead, just today don't let me down I need to get on this flight at 8.30pm. All was well the road was rubbish but a little last minute training I though as I had the big bugger air born on a few occasions, crunching down hard on the suspension with a smile under my helmet. But the of course it happened, 10 k's before the border my bike just stopped, hmm what the hell is this, I took my helmet of and instantly knew the problem and this meant deep shit! I could smell acid, sulphur, my battery had exploded, therefore the battery was been over charged byt the rectifier, I had it before so I knew. What to do, the strangest things happen, a guy, local looking rocks up on a chopper, dressed in leather, chains and rings oh and not to mention tattoes, he spoke with a deep American accent, and explained he lived in the US but was original from Cambodia, I quickly discovered he was rotten drunk, his breath almost making me sway, then he offered me a huge spliff, I declined saying "right now my friend I need to be as switched on as possible" maybe it would have taken the worry away, who knows. So he started to preach all about how us 'Bikers" stick together, then he suggested he tow me to the border, hmm I could see that ending in complete disaster, not the airport I would have been bound for but more like the morgue! I quickly decided to flag down a ute, eventually after a few minutes one stopped and we made a deal, I was desperate and they wanted money, so we loaded it in the back whilst my new friend worked on his giant spliff. Then he tried to ride off and his bike broke, shit I felt bad, he stopped for me but here I was driving of leaving him behind, I just said sorry mate I need to catch a flight, good luck, some how I don't think he will even remember I was there!

Now I was at the border, or at least in the border town on the Cambodian side still, time ticking away til my flight and with 350 k's to go I figured I had no hope, after asking about I found a battery from an old bike leaning against a workshop wall, it was not the correct size but it would do, in it went and away went the bike when I hit the button, great I was back in action. Off to the border after been relieved to much for a second hand battery again I was desperate and they had the battery. Now at the border I stamped out of Cambodia no problems, even skipped customs, figured I would not be back, then the Thai side, all of a sudden I needed insurance, aw this was not good, thinking quick on my feet, which seems to be something I have picked up of late, i showed him a piece of paper that had all the writing washed away as it had been in my pocket in the rain, I said this was it, sorry for the print, he studied it, I could see the little mouse in his head going a million miles an hour, then with a few baht he filled out a form and let me in, it worked, now it was off to Bangers, the road was good and I arrived there at 6pm, got my luggage from left luggage and then found Harley Davidson, met Ross, packed mt bags right there in the car park, sculled a tiger beer, jumped in a cab and shot to airport, just in time to check in and board the plane, it was a relief to be sitting on the plane, what a day, but again "in the end it will be alright and if its not alright its not the end"

So I spent the day at Harley fitting a new battery then testing the rectifier, yep it was done for, luckily I had been to Dubai and picked up my old rectifier from the bike that was stolen that the cops found, so I had a spare, I fitted that and hey presto it works, then riding home in the dark my bike stops, I rolled to a stop on the busy street of Bangkok and started to find the problem. Right there and then I experienced something that I did not expect, I was relaxed and calm, completely, I simply started to take all the stuff of and go through in my head what it could be, right there in the dark, not phased in the slightest, usually I might curse saying truck and poo a lot! I think with all the problems I have faced and again knowing that I will solve it it the end finally naturally came over me, there is never a problem to large. For the next hour I went over everything, cars whizzing by, found two wires touching which caused the main fuse to blow, got it going and rode onto the guest house.

Monks at Ankor Wat

Ankor Wat

I would really like to take some time to thank every body for the messages I received about the race, your comments are priceless and I will have them forever, they mean a lot to me. And not just for the race I always enjoy your comments, don't be shy now. Also I get a lot of people saying "they envy what I am doing" or "I would love to do that" plus I hear from some that they are inspired to get out there and do something, that gives me such a great feeling, if I can inspire one person well thats one more person chasing their dreams, dreams do come true and I have learnt that I can make my dreams come true, you can to, don't envy me, get out there and do it yourself, you can, all of you can, anything is possible, every day during the race I just kept telling myself to make it to the end, just keep going and I made it, I made it to the end second, how about that!

Thank you everyone for sharing my trip with me, so now begins the last leg to Australia, I am headed north to visit Vietnam, then I will head south down Thailand to Malaysia, cross to Sumatra, Indonesia and island hop all the way to East Timor and load the mother ship onto a boat to Darwin, then from Darwin it will be a short 3-4000 k's to the farm, Turriff. Along the way I hope to team up with Clint, there you go mate you have to come now, and another great couple of mates, Wierd Al and Magilla, yep Aussie boys with names like that and cross the Simpson Desert, one last desert crossing for me, I just love them! So I think the adventure is far from over although I feel very close to home, there is a lot to come yet, so enjoy the last few months of updates because once I am done your work day might seem a little dull after that! I know I am in for a shock to say the least.